A New England Traveler’s Guide to Istanbul, Turkey

Guides

Istanbul has stood at the crossroads of civilization for millennia, from Biblical times, when it was known as Byzantium, to Constantinople during the Roman era, to more than 450 years under the Ottoman Empire. Today, it remains one of the most sophisticated, eclectic, and electrically vibrant cities in the world. Like an onion with seemingly infinite layers, it’s literally where Europe meets Asia, the two continents facing each other across the Bosphorus, which is plied day and night by a dizzying array of boat traffic. The iconic skyline is punctuated by domes and minarets interspersed with skyscrapers, palaces, towers, and endless red rooftops. Because of its rich history, it’s also one of the most polyglot places on earth, and its art, architecture, and culture are the very definition of cosmopolitan. Put another way, a person could live a hundred lifetimes in Istanbul and still not begin to scratch the surface of all its secrets.

PLAY

Several of Istanbul’s most famous structures are located in Sultanahmet Square. The massive Hagia Sophia is literally the template for Byzantine architecture, while the nearby Blue Mosque is one of Islam’s most magnificent monuments. Nearby are other attractions that would qualify as the main draw in any other city. You can’t miss the recently reopened Istanbul Modern, the contemporary art museum designed by Renzo Piano, or the recently restored Basilica Cistern Museum, an underground reservoir that resembles an upside-down cathedral, featuring ancient columns from different epochs. Within walking distance of the Basilica is the Grand Bazaar: One of the world’s oldest and largest indoor markets, it features more than 4,000 shops selling everything under the sun. The Egyptian Bazaar, meanwhile, specializes in spices, dried fruits, nuts, and the sticky confection known as Turkish delight (a jelly candy often made with the latter two). Though Topkapi Palace served as the Sultan’s home from the Middle Ages until the mid-1800s, the jaw-dropping splendor and scale of the imperial court can be better appreciated with a tour of Dolmabaçe Palace, a 19th-century complex along the Bosphorus that boasts the magnificent Crystal Staircase. Speaking of the Bosphorus: Nowhere else can you travel from Europe to Asia using pocket change, and a ferry ride to Anatolia (Asia Minor) is rewarded by the lively streets and popular cafés, bars, and restaurants of Kadikoy. When it’s time to unwind, an absolutely mandatory stop during any visit to Istanbul is a hammam, or Turkish bath, where you will be doused, scrubbed, and rubbed into a state of total relaxation.

EAT

It’s almost impossible to have a bad meal in Istanbul. A traditional Turkish spread begins with a generous array of mezze, followed by a main dish (possibly kebabs) with sides, followed often by dessert but always by a tray of Turkish delight. Two of our favorite local places are the Market at Bosphorus (a contemporary Turkish take on a steakhouse) and the original Köşebaşi in Levent, widely recognized as the city’s best kebab. For a taste of 1920s glamour, lunch on the terrace of the Pera Palace Hotel is a must; everyone from Atatürk to Agatha Christie stayed there.

STAY

Most tourists opt to stay at one of the luxury hotels closest to Sultanahmet, but for a five-star stay with unbeatable views, unparalleled comfort, and an unrivaled spa, Raffles Istanbul takes the cake. Situated atop one of the city’s highest hills, with a panorama that includes all three of the bridges connecting Europe to Asia, the hotel is a breathtaking respite from the city’s buzz.

GETTING THERE

Business class on Turkish Airlines (which operates daily direct from Logan) is the way to go, thanks to restaurant-quality food (braised lamb shank, anyone?) and a lounge in the Istanbul airport that includes a golf simulator, grand piano, and ironing service for your return flight.